As the fashion industry grapples with the challenges of climate change, resource depletion, and social inequality, one item stands out as both a symbol and a catalyst of change: jeans.
Denim, the cotton-based fabric that jeans are made of, is one of the most iconic and ubiquitous materials in fashion history, yet also one of the most controversial and complex in terms of its impact on the environment and society.
The Allure and Ambiguity of Denim: A Brief History of Jeans
Jeans have a long and fascinating history that spans continents, cultures, and subcultures. From the workers and cowboys who first wore them for practical reasons, to the rebels and icons who made them a symbol of rebellion and style, jeans have always embodied a certain kind of attitude and authenticity that resonates with people of all ages and backgrounds.
However, denim is also a material that has a dark side, one that is often hidden from view or ignored by consumers and brands alike. Cotton farming, the first stage of the denim production process, is known for its intensive use of water, pesticides, and fertilisers, which contribute to soil erosion, water scarcity, and biodiversity loss. Moreover, the textile industry, which includes denim production, is one of the largest sources of pollution and waste in the world, due to the use of chemicals, water, and energy.
The Journey of Jeans: From Cotton Fields to Factories, Stores, and Beyond
To understand the impact of jeans on the environment and society, we need to look at their entire lifecycle. From the cotton fields to factories, stores, and beyond, Dr. Andrew Brooks and Katelyn Toth-Fejel's infographic sheds light on the journey of jeans, revealing the hidden costs of this ubiquitous item.
It all starts with cotton farming, an industry notorious for its harmful practices and reliance on cheap labour. Shockingly, it can take up to 8000 litres of water to produce just one pair of jeans, and cotton production is responsible for 10% of all agricultural pesticides and 25% of insecticides worldwide.
The production process of jeans is also resource-intensive, requiring copious amounts of energy, water, and chemicals. The iconic blue colour of denim comes from synthetic indigo dye, typically made from the harmful chemical aniline. Additionally, toxic chemicals like cyanide are often used, contributing to pollution that causes rivers to turn bright blue in some countries, such as China. And let's not forget the workers in the denim industry, who are often paid low wages and work in unsafe conditions.
Once produced, jeans are marketed as fast fashion, encouraging consumers to buy more and more clothes. But this culture of disposability creates waste, with discarded jeans ending up in landfills or incinerators, contributing to climate change, air pollution, and water contamination. What’s worse, almost half of all discarded jeans from high income countries are sent back to low-income countries as waste.
Towards a More Sustainable and Ethical Denim Industry
A more sustainable and ethical denim industry is possible, and many brands are already taking steps towards this goal. If you’re in need of some jeans but don’t want the impact, Hiut Denim, a brand based in Los Angeles, uses organic and sustainable materials and manufacturing techniques. They also promote a "6-month, no-wash" philosophy to reduce the environmental impact of washing and drying clothes and extend the life of their jeans.
Other sustainable denim brands include Sweden’s super-hip Nudie Jeans, which uses organic cotton and offers free repairs for life, and the iconic Levi's, which launched its own "Water<Less" collection that significantly reduces water usage in the production process.
In addition to sustainable and ethical production practices, innovations in textile technology are also helping to make denim more eco-friendly. One such example is the use of recycled denim in the production of new jeans. Brands like Madewell and Reformation have incorporated recycled denim into their collections, reducing the need for virgin cotton and diverting textile waste from landfills.